Loire Valley Part 2

Monday, May 27

We had hoped to get back to Amboise in time to visit Le Clos Lucé, Leonardo de Vinci’s home for the last 3 years of his life, but instead, visit the next morning.  There are two couples of mallard ducks patrolling the lot.  A couple with a little boy are all involved with one of the couples.  The male mallard soon chases off the other male.  There is a stream bordering the lot, and along the bank we see a duckling all curled up in the grass at the base of a tree.  He doesn’t stir even though we get fairly close.

Le Clos Lucé is bordered by a wall that encloses the house and a beautiful park.  

Mom and I climb a curving staircase to begin the visit to the house while Tom, with his cane, is shown an easier route.  He says he got the red carpet treatment since his route was covered with a red carpet!

 There are several groups of school children visiting Le Clos Lucé today.  Each has a workbook, and they are all filling them out in the different rooms.  The first room is Leonardo da Vinci’s bedroom.  The bed has a red canopy, and in a corner of one of the curtains, a white cat is curled up asleep.  I am not sure it is a cat at first, until I see it stretch into a new sleeping position.  I point it out to the teacher, who tells the kids, and of course, everyone wants to look.  

The various rooms are well appointed.  In Leonardo’s reception room or dining room are copies of the Mona Lisa and of an angel, perhaps a study for one of Leonardo’s larger works.  The kitchen smells of mustard, and I take a picture of the kitchen work table where the kids are writing in their books.  One little boy notices that I am taking a picture and starts to move out of the way.  I tell him, d’accord, sourer (okay, smile!), and I get a big smile!

Downstairs are models and explanations of some of Leonardo’s inventions.  I have been watching the Da Vinci’s Demons series, and the multiple canon he invented for Lorenzo de Medici are on display.  

There is a steep staircase descends to a subterranean level, and Mom speculates that it is a secret tunnel to the castle at Amboise that we can see from the garden.  Later, she finds a mention of this supposed fact, as legend has it, that the king would use this tunnel to come see what Leonardo was up to any given day.

Outside, there are three different gardens.  One north of the house is manicured and not a lot is blooming yet.  It is from here that you can see the castle.  Actually, the best view is that of the small chapel in which Leonardo is supposedly buried.  I say supposedly because there is a small monument; however, legend has it that he is actually buried somewhere else on the castle grounds.

Below the garden by the house is an herb or kitchen garden. 

 South of the house is a large park which displays working models of some of Leonardo’s inventions.

Back at the parking lot, we find the little duckling has become more energetic.  There is a hen with her chicks by the stream.

After our Le Clos Lucé visit, we go into medieval Amboise for lunch, then stroll through some of the streets near the castle.  For lunch, Tom and I split a very good pizza with ham and mushrooms.  We sit outside and see several people with their dogs.  We are surprised to see 3 Bernese Mountain dogs who meet on the sidewalk.  One of the dogs and his owners sit beside us at the cafe.

Bigot is a chocolatier where we indulge ourselves!  Tom hands Mom a five euro and tells her to get whatever she wants.

Tom suggests that we take a drive out to Chenonceau, a chateau built over the river Cher.  First we drive past a charming hotel in which we have stayed in the past.  The original owners, Laurent and Sophie, have since sold the hotel.  

In the parking area for Chenonceau, there are some trees supporting mistletoe.  This plant we associate with kissing and love is actually a parasite that can take over the trees.

After Tom pays for our ticket, we find a couple of horses grazing in a nearby field.

Chenonceau has an interesting history.  Originally, King Henri II installed  his mistress Diane de Poitiers in the chateau.  When the King Henri II of France died, his wife, Catherine de Medici kicked out the mistress and took the chateau for herself.

During World War II, the north part of the chateau was in Occupied France; however, once you crossed the river, you were in Free France.  The gallery built over the river was used as a hospital during the war, and often soldiers and members of the resistance were smuggled through to Free France.

Mom is worn out, so she stays in the car while Tom and I walk up to the chateau.  There is a long, tree-lined path that leads up to the chateau.  

To the left, after you reach the chateau grounds, is Diane de Poitiers’ garden, mostly of flowers.   Catherine de Medici’s garden is on the right and is mostly topiary.

I have been playing a game with my sisters and niece, texting them pictures and asking “Où sommes-nous?  Tom and I try to take a picture of us with Chenonceau in the background, and our self-portrait skills are very lacking.

Tom decides to go back to the car, and I duck into the chateau to take pictures of the beautiful flower arrangements they have in every room.

The gallery over the river.  

Famous painting of King Louis XIV

At the front of the chateau is a bell tower about which swallows are building their nests and feeding their young.

Back at the hotel, we pack up and get organized for our departure the next morning.