Sunday, May 19, 2013

Our Abode in Paris

We spent a lot of time researching apartments.  Certain requirements were agreed upon:  air conditioning, no or few stairs, and at least 2 rooms.  We used the website VRBO.   The apartment itself is as advertised; however, the access to the apartment was not very clear.  There are about as many steps to get to the apartment where we are staying as there were to the apartment in Montmartre where my sisters and I have stayed in the past.  The closest main street is rue Monge.  Here are the stairs we have to go up and down in order to get to the street.  Then there is a stoop and a winding staircase in order to get to the apartment on the first floor.  First floor in France is the second floor in America. 




Dragging my suitcase up to the apartment was a major feat in itself.  I did pack one suitcase and one carryon that I decided to check as well.  I used some of those vacuum packing bags where you suck out the air with a vacuum or press out the air to sort of shrink-wrap your clothes.  My suitcase still had plenty of room, and at the airport in San Diego, it weighed 53 pounds!  And I still had plenty of room! The United agent asked if I would take something out to make it at least 51 pounds, so I took out a bag of shampoo, and voila!  All I took on the plane was my laptop and my purse.  Pretty light for me!

Once we have a chance to sit, I hear about Mom’s and Tom’s adventure getting to the apartment.  It took over 2 hours for them to get into Paris from Charles de Gaulle Airport since it turns out to be a holiday weekend.  It sounds like their traffic issues were 10 times worse than my trip from CDG to Paris.  Not only that, their taxi fare was based on a meter, while mine was negotiated before we left the airport.  I lucked out on that one.

We break open the bottle of wine from our welcome basket—a nice Bordeaux.  While I am almost always ready for a glass of wine, I was thirsty—water, water, water!  A moment to breathe!  Thankfully, Mom and Tom did get out to find lunch and had time to unpack before I arrived.  After I unpacked, we ventured out to rue Monge in search of a baguette and cheese and meat.  What looked like a small Carrefour Market but which was really very big inside was open.  We saw people walking by us with grocery bags before finding the market.  It was packed.  Saturday night grocery shopping!  We found a wealth of wine and cheese and meat and other sundry.  A perfect dinner—brie and French bread—my idea of heaven.




After a refreshing shower for me, we headed for bed.  Tomorrow is another day . . .


Sunday, May 20
Ever try to get 3 or more people going in the morning so you can get outside and see Paris?  It is not as easy as one might think.  Mom gets up hours before Tom and me.  She makes coffee and has to get something to eat.  I am sleeping on the couch in the living room.  I start to stir.  She says, Finally!  It’s about 8 am.  There’s coffee, and Mom puts our grocery store croissant and pan chocolat in the oven to get warm (which takes forever), then once Tom is up, Mom announces she is off to the shower.  Tom and I wait and wait for the croissant to get warm.  It takes hours!  Not literally.  We discuss, and I eventually make another pot of coffee.  We had been given directions of 7 spoons to 10 cups.  I start doling out the spoonfuls, only my spoonfuls are heaping, and Tom stops me at 5 since he is sure Mom had level spoonfuls.  French Café Noir turns out well, so no complaints.  Thereafter, it’s Tom’s turn for the shower.  Thankfully, when it is my turn, I only had to get dressed.  We made our way down all the stairs with a mission to buy carnets of metro/bus tickets.  The Tabac isn’t open.  Neither is the Carrefour—which explains why it was so busy Saturday night.  Mom wants us to take a bus, but we end up descending stairs to the metro where we proceed to purchase metro/bus tickets.  Talk about an exercise in futility!  Mom and Tom try using the automated machine.  I ask the woman at Information, after Tom has made her get up and tend to business at the Information window, who tells me my Navigo card won’t work until Monday.   This is a card for which you can buy a week’s worth of passage instead of using individual tickets each time you travel on the metro or on the bus.  The line behind us grows.  They finally take pity on us and help get the steps right.  Success!  I tell them to go before me, but they start the procedure for the Navigo card.  First we try the card to see if there’s anything on it.  It doesn’t, so we add credit to the card; however, it turns out the week begins on Monday, so while my card now works, we dig into the individual tickets for our travels today.  We decide to head to the direction of the Louvre.  I thought we had picked the metro stop wherein you get out right at the bottom floor—no steps.  Alas, steps, steps, and more steps.  

Here is a little girl on her scooter with her dad.  I think of a French story called Zazie dans le metro.


We head to the Louvre:



The crowd is enormous in front of the Louvre and the Pyramid—holiday weekend, remember?  We notice a group of policemen—a couple on bicycles and several more on roller blades. 




First glimpse of La Tour Eiffel:



Looking for each other:


Mom wants to get on a bus.  I insist that I want to go to some shops at the Carousel.  It is still a madhouse of people.  We are all hot and tired, so I send Mom and Tom off to go find someplace to sit and get a drink while I visit the 3 shops on my agenda.  At the first, I purchase a Paris-themed Pandora-type bead for the bracelet I bought at that same store in 2009 when Jessica and I visited Paris.  I had an Eiffel Tower charm and didn’t really want an Arc de Triomphe, so this time, I chose a windmill, with actually moving windmill arms!  The second stop is at L’Occitane for some verbena (lemon-scented) eau de parfum.  As I head to my third stop, I see Mom ahead.  They couldn’t find a place to sit and were anxious get a move-on.  Outside, Mom wants to get a bus.  We decide we need to find a place to sit down and get a drink.  I remember that one of our favorite restaurants, Le Nemour, is close-by.  It is also next to a favorite art deco decorated Metro entrance.  Tom points out L’Opera Garnier down the other side of the street. 





Respite.  A cozy corner in Le Nemours.  Tom and I order the quiche of the day which comes with a small salad and a glass of wine.  Mom gets a salad called the Comedien, which became a comedy of errors.  The quiche of the day is goat cheese and zuccini.  Parfait! 




Angelina Jolie sat out here in one of the opening scenes of The Tourist





Wherever we go in France, and in Paris, in particular, we see what must be fashion photos being taking of brides.  Today is no exception.  I first catch a view of the faux bride in question in front of the Louvre, but miss her.  I see her walk by while we are in Le Nemours

They head toward Palais Royal but are in view again by a Presse stand and by the art deco Metro:



While finishing our wine, the Paris Bus book and Paris Practique come out.  Mom wants to get on a bus.  We find a bus line that will take us in a general direction; however, by the time we find the correct bus stop, we have just missed the bus.  

Street sign:  "Riders of Rohan!"



After some discussion, we decide to get back on the metro that brought us to Louvre/Rivoli, but instead of making the change of metro lines we had before, we stick with the one line that will take us one metro stop past the metro stop where we had bought the tickets. 

Advertisement at the metro:



On the metro, a little boy is fast asleep with his mouth wide open.  We went through about 7 stops, and he slept through it all.




Out of the metro, we find an escalator to take us up to the street.  And, it is starting to pour down rain.  Our street is in the middle of the distance between the two metro stops.  We also need to stop to get a baguette.  Mom wants to go to a boulangerie across the street while I said there’s one right here, why don’t we go in.  She buys a baguette, croissants, and pain chocolat.  I buy milles feuilles and chocolat.  At the stairs up to our street, while it is still pouring down rain, Tom decides he is going to see if he can find some place to buy a bottle of wine, since we only have part of an open bottle.  Mom and I climb the stairs . . . and more stairs . . . and crash into the apartment.  Tom comes in a little bit later, with no success in finding some wine—it’s Sunday!  It’s a holiday!  We finish the Chinon with baguette, cheese, sausage, ham, and mille fueilles!


A totally off the subject note.  My wonderful niece Jessica graduated from University of Missouri at St Louis on Sunday, May 19, Magna Cum Laude!  So proud of her!

Jessica and brother Drew!

A bientot!

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